The West Briton 9:00 - 24 August 2006

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I've Just realised my stomach's been leading me in the wrong direction - I live in Tresillian so if I dine out it's invariably towards Truro and beyond that I will head. However, after discovering gourmet gold at the Lamplighter in Probus I realise what I've been missing. And if you want an absolutely delicious meal, using locally sourced produce in a cosy, relaxed atmosphere then I urge you to visit the restaurant on Fore Street.

Rob and Mairead Vogel moved to the 300-year-old Lamplighter from Norfolk about a year ago and have made it their own. Your palate's in good hands - Rob, a member of the Craft Guild of Chefs, was head chef on the QE2 and in that capacity has fed the Queen among a host of royalty and celebrities.

It's not hyperbole to say that my starter was the best I've ever tasted. I wolf down my food, but this was the sort of dish to savour every mouthful. Seared foie gras on beetroot potato cakes with a balsamic vinegar and port wine glaze looked too good to eat.

It was sublime, the subtle tastes of the foie gras - yes, I know it's not a politically correct dish but, to be honest, I don't care when it tastes this good - and the beetroot cakes meld in a harmonious taste sensation. It literally melted in my mouth.

My wife is three months pregnant and has been suffering from all-day morning sickness so was quietly dreading having to discreetly rush off mid-meal. However, halfway through my starter I realised her's had disappeared. The tiger tail prawns saut??ed in garlic butter with a hint of chilli had been greedily devoured and there wasn't a hint of that morning sickness for the rest of our meal - a good sign, surely.

My main course of red mullet fillets - freshly caught that day - on a sundried tomato cous-cous with a rosemary and saffron dressing was equally good. The fish was perfectly cooked and the flagrant cous-cous and dressing gave it an exotic, vaguely Oriental flavour.

The prime Cornish fillet of beef was the best possible advert for this county's homegrown food that you could get - succulent and tasty on a rosti potato with wild mushroom sauce. All mains are served with seasonal vegetables and gorgeous homemade breads.

Other mains include Rob's signature dish, Gressingham duck breast, Newlyn-landed loin of tuna and fillet of locally produced pork, stuffed with prunes and wrapped in ham. I now want to try them all.

Desserts include summer pudding with lavender ice cream, panna cotta with spiced rhubarb and steamed treacle orange sponges with Cornish clotted cream.

I can vouch for the saffron cr??me brulee with balsamic ice cream - simply heavenly and the ice cream was a new hit for my taste buds.

I can't speak highly enough of the Lamplighter - awesome food, intimate surroundings and friendly staff.

My only criticism? A few spelling mistakes on the menu, but that's just the journalist in me!

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